Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Chole – a magical retreat


After much research my first trip to mainland Africa was to be to Tanzania. South Africa appeared to be too much like a staged show of the game - but I still will visit this wonderful country.

Our first stay in Tanzania was not to one of the safari parks but to a small island. Chole is just off Mafia Island and we had booked at the Chole Mjini Lodge. The magic started the moment we got off the car, at the sea shore. I saw a holiday resort on the beach - it looked really nice and just as I had started to smile at the prospect our driver and guide said “not there - we are on the island just across from here”. The mode of transport was a boat bobbing in the sea. I failed to see any jetty and then caught on - with shoes off and rolled up trousers we waded out to the boat. As we scrambled in, the luggage was also added to the boat.

Waiting to welcome us at the Chole beach was Lyndsey (the Lodge Manager). We waded out through the water and had our first introduction to Chole Mjini. Lyndsey was bare feet and we soon realised that shoes were unnecessary especially as all the pathways round the estate were covered in sand.


A brief introduction to Chole Mjini was followed by our first sight of “our” tree house - named Tano. A fantastic luxurious structure set amongst the tree tops with sweeping views, especially from the upstairs relaxing area. Chole Mjini has no electricity - except for solar powered torches; however there is facility to charge mobiles, laptops etc - if you want to. The great charm of the place is no TV, amazingly civilised and eco friendly drop down toilets (not a hint of any smells), and running water. A tank was filled everyday for the unique open air shower - water heated by a small paraffin filled can. I, and others, spent ages working out how on earth it could produce an instant hot water shower?  I am doing my best to acquire one of these from Tanzania. This too was part of the magic of Chole.

Lack of electricity, however, did not stop the bar - on a tree house, where else – from having ice and chilled drinks. A gas refrigerator performed this miracle. However the real miracle was performed daily by Lyndsey and her staff who made the stay a unique experience. Dinner spot varied - in the ruins, by the beach under the stars and so on - and all the guests preferred it round a big table.

The walk round the village and the school was both enjoyable and enlightening; the snorkelling was fantastic; we didn’t manage to see the turtles hatching or the whale sharks as this was not the right time of the year. We also never spotted the mice who eat any soap left in the open - how did they acquire the taste for it?

But I shall be back for these. What a magical place to chill out. My trip was arranged by Chillout365 www.chillout365.com


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